When I think of hard crack climbing, it is hard not to think of J.P. Ouellet as one of the best. Around this time last year, Ouellet climbed the massive 90 foot dead horizontal crack in Utah he dubbed Necronomicon (513a/5.14a), in Canyonlands National Park, only to climb No Way Jose (5.13) a short time after.
This year, Ouellet started his rampage of Utah’s White Rim in similar fashion by eastablishing two new routes, one of them onsight. At this point Ouellet has become a connoisseur of hard cracks. He reports, via the Black Diamond Journal, that he has flashed The Vadge (5.13-) and made the first ascent of the roof crack, Fisting the Crack (5.13-) onsight.
That wasn’t enough the Canadian superstar. Back in Moab, he remembered a 150 foot line up in Long’s Canyon that had yet been freed. After a day and a half of cleaning and several sessions on the route, Mexican Snow Fairy (5.13+) was set free.
“The core of the crack is fingers and thin finger (mostly .3 and .4 Camalots with a baggy .5 Camalot “bitch” section. The route is guarded by two hard cruxes: one at the start and one right at the end, five feet from the anchor. The route was pretty painful for me so I wasn’t able to try it more than once every two days. I ended up sending a couple days before the end of the trip. I called it the Mexican Snow Fairy (5.13+). It’s one of the hardest finger cracks I’ve climbed around Moab.”
Ouellet is a Quebec crack master, repeating hard lines such as, Toit de Ben and Zebra Crack in Val David.