The Pinch – 2.28.11

The northeast climbing news in a pinch: A Lake Willoughby climber took a bad fall on the Promenade. A group of Ohio climbers get stuck on the Trap Dike and request a helicopter. MetroRock in Everett, MA gets a big addition to its already massive facility and lastly Quebec climber Louis Rousseau makes it to 6250 meters and has to back down. Happy Monday!

Lake Willoughby Accident

Last Sunday, the weather was prime at Lake Willoughby. Most of the Northeast had just seen a warm spell, reaching nearly 60 degrees. On Sunday the 20th, temps dropped back down to semi-normal, making for great sunny ice climbing. Olof Dallner was on the Promenade (WI5+), a beautiful line that consists of climbing a curtain of chandelier ice. On the second pitch, Olof was climbing the curtain when the whole thing collapsed. He took a 75ft whipper, crushed his helmet, and bloodied himself up pretty good. Miraculously, he was able to walk out and made it to the hospital without medical help.¬† His Nomic was lost in the accident so if you find it or have information on it’s whereabouts contact us and we’ll get you in touch with Olof.

Rescues in the Adirondacks

Winter outings are fun when you have the right equipment, the time, and the know-how. Last weekend, a group of climbers headed for Avalanche Lake with intentions of climbing the Trap Dike (WI2). Once above the second waterfall, the climbers became fatigued and scared. They tried calling for a rescue and requested to be helicoptered out. Kevin Burns, the local forest ranger, said “There’s no helicopter, dude; it’s not happening.” and told them to descend from the dike. Burns and Joe Giglinto headed into the area on snowmobiles assuming the climbers would be at the base of the climb. That was not the case; the two rangers climbed the Dike and convinced the stuck group to rappel down. They had all the necessary equipment but apparently inexperienced on how to use it. That same weekend a 26-year fella from Pennsylvania spent two unplanned nights out in the cold after getting lost on the summit of Mount Emmons. The wind picked up and covered his tracks. He bunked under a downed tree and was able to dry out some of his equipment. He made it out on his own with a compass and map. Just as a rescue team was about to start searching for him he popped out of the trees.

MetroRock Addition

Pat Bagley reports via his blog, that the Everett MetroRock is up to something big. They have started creating a massive new addition to its already huge climbing gym. Check out the pics here.

Louis Makes it to 6250 Meters

Lastly, we have been closely following along as Quebec climber, Louis Rousseau and his team, attempt a new route on GI in the winter. They made it to roughly 6250 meters but had to retreat because they couldn’t find a flat space for their tent. The weather has been crappy so the team is keeping warm and rereading their books until the end of the week when better weather is supposedly coming. Enjoy their video below!


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