Looks like Daila Ojeda is going to have to share the spotlight. Just two days after Spanish climber Ojeda accomplished climbing Mind Control in Oliana, Spain, Nina Caprez does the same. She is now the second female to repeat Chris Sharma’s Mind Control, a rigorous, 40 meter, 5.14/8c+ course.
When asked about the course, Caprez stated “It’s a crazy line, a great journey.” She also says excitedly “Six small trials, folded quickly, as I like!”
Caprez tried to climb Mind Control last year and failed but succesfully climbed Fish Eye an 8c in the same area. Fortunately, failing to tick off Mind Control did not deter a motivated Caprez. After four attempts this week, Caprez explains that on her first serious try she redpointed.
It all started with a 7c. Nina explains vividly:
“A long wall in a part very technical and good cruxs at the end where you really have to be assertive spend. For me, the hardest part was to manage the vertical part, fifteen delicate movements lockups necessitating very accurate.”
The second problem she experienced related to the length of the course. She states that “management track is very long and if it not known to relax and keep calm, slide and fall.”
She also says she that “being calm and super psyched” were major factors in her success. “You just have to have a good mental and do not let go,” she sates.
Sources: UKclimbing.com, Kairn.com
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