It comes as no surprise that Nathan Kutcher is back at it in Southern Ontario. Not long after his victory at the Ouray Ice Festival, Kutcher headed to Diamond Lake in Ontario with his sights set on the long standing right leaning crack system that finishes on the large dagger at the top. The impressive 35m (115 ft.) of overhanging runout rock and thin ice has been attempted by a few climbers but never put to bed, until a few days ago. In an interview with us, Kutcher had mentioned he would be traveling to a few locations to get on some unfinished projects. Doesn’t look like it took him too long. He is naming the new line Metamorphosis and giving it a grade of M10 R.
Photo by: Adrienne Tam
“This line had been looked at for years and even saw a few attempts before I first saw it in the winter of 2007-2008. It was thin and I was still very green when it came to sketchy mixed climbing. The first time I saw it I didn’t have the rock gear along to even think about trying it. Later on that winter I returned with rock gear, stubby screws and a few bolts. Looking at it I could see that it was in no condition to even try to attempt. The thin ice was even thinner and water was running behind it. I knew I could bolt it into submission and climb it, but such a line deserved better that that. It would have to wait for another year.”
In a long, detailed report on his blog “Mixed Momentum” Nathan gives the full account of his success and failure over the last few year — battling conditions, lack of skill and of gear. Southern Ontario has notoriously short ice climbing seasons so it is imperative to know when and where ice is forming; often times climbers have to drive long distances to find ice. It took him nearly two hours to complete the route and at one point he could have caught 70 feet of air had he taken a fall.
“It took me about two hours to to climb the route with the only no-hands coming at the top of the huge flake in the lower ice section just before the first/lower drytool crux.”
Sources: http://ontarioclimbing.com and http://mixedmomentum.blogspot.com
Trackbacks