Ines Papert Illuminati ascent M11+ WI6+

Ines Papert reports on one of her most impressive ascents to date near Wolkenstein, Italy. On January 27, 2012, she became the first woman to climb Illuminati, an impressive M11 + WI6+ graded route that is regarded as Europe’s most stout, multi-pitch mixed climbs.

“At times you really need to know how to wait for just the right moment,” she says in The Black Diamond Journal after her long, six-year wait that resulted in a repeat of Illuminati.

Papert knows Illuminati well. Her first interaction with this “gigantic roof with demanding, runout, final pitches” was back in 2006 with her partner Albert Leichtfried. “Already, I was keen on a repetition, but the ice on the upper part of the wall made itself rare,” she explained. The second attempt occurred three years later with climbing partner Astner but ended in similar dilemma.  Another try in 2010 with partner Angelika Reiner ended unsuccessfully again because temperatures were too low. “Climbing M11 + with thin gloves was simply out of the question,” she stated.

Finally on Janaury 27, 2012, her dream came true. A quick call to her friend Hubert Moroder confirmed that climbing conditions were sufficient enough for an ascent. Papert and new climbing partner, Lisi Steurer, were excited.

“Tension grew” explained Papert “and I couldn’t wait to see the route. Finally we stood at its base, it was like a dream. Glazing blue ice, the sun shone over the mountain tops, the temperature was a bit too warm for this time of year. I felt like I could do it today.”

The route begins with a 30 meter M11 which leads to the roof that has a crux pitch leading up to the ice. “And I got over the roof, at the first attempt this time,” Papert says. She and her climbing partner, Lisi Steurer, waited until the sun had gone behind the mountain. “We did not want to expose ourselves, because icicles kept falling off,” she explains.

Even though Ines Papert is an experienced climber, she did have some reservations about the climb. “When I reached the ice column, my stomach clenched for a second.” Papert had no  ice screws, and still had 20 vertical meters to climb. She remembers asking herself if her nerves would hold.

But the answer came quickly. “I listened to my inner feeling and had good sensations. I did a bit of introspection, but it felt good inside. I climbed higher, above the tension crack and could finally set the first reasonable screw. The other pitches followed and we reached the top. We were jubilant and shouted for joy.”