Chris Sharma interview
Pierre Del√°s, from Kairn, interviewed Chris Sharma in Santa Linya a while back. Chris talks about First Round First Minute, climbing in general, his routes, life and projects. – from the low down
Controversy has spread across the climbing community after Chris red flagged his route “First Round First Minute”. The controversy between Nalle and Sharma began after Nalle couldn’t climb the route because Sharma had flagged it until he had finished it. Sharma just finished the Variation First Ley a 9a+.
Here is a snippet of the an interview with Sharma about First Ley.
What route was it you did yesterday?
It‚Äôs called First ley, and is around 9a+. In reality it’s the left variation of my project FRFM (First round, first minute). There is a very hard section at the end of FRFM, you know. I’ve fallen ~30 times at the last move. I’m tired of (and pissed off) it and I wanted to try something else. That’s why I turned left after the middle of the route. It’s quite hard and it gives me pleasure to complete something difficult. Frfm still remains to be done, but doing First ley was a good thing for my motivation.
Your problem with the route is more mental?
Yes, it’s a mental problem. After 30 falls on the same and last move, it’s a real head fuck… It’s not like falling in the middle. When you fall, you have made all the effort of doing the other moves of the entire route. It’s very frustrating! I need to go away a little from the route, to climb at Oliana with Daila, to bolt new lines. To mix all the things, to regain my spirit. It’s not good to try the same route over and over, for too long… I have spent several months on FRFM. Now, I need to take a break because I’m starting to feel a mental block. It was good for me to climb the left variation, for releasing some of the pressure. I’ve finished a part, it remains to finish the whole route.
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