Archive for category: Trad Climbing

/ September 3, 2010 12:39 pm

New Hard Route on Deer Leap Mountain in Vermont

Teaser: A new hard but aesthetically pleasing route was recently established on Deer Leap Mountain in Vermont by Guy Alsentzer. Guy has named the route Simple and Independent Minds and given it a grade of 5.12 C2. He used a small amount of direct clean aid in order to gain the over hanging crack. His comments as far as the [...]

/ August 9, 2010 11:11 am

DMM Dragon Cam Recall

DMM is trying to spread the news that they are recalling the #6 Dragon Cam. There seems to be a structural defect that is specific only to the size 6 Dragon Cam. The information below is from the DMM website. They are confident that it does not affect any other sizes except the number 6. These spicy pieces of gear [...]

/ August 4, 2010 6:23 pm

Boogie ’til you poop (video)

This has got to be one of the funniest things I have ever seen. Now what is the lesson we have learned here?

/ June 18, 2010 9:00 am

Fun Climbing Video’s for the Work Day

Steph Davis cranking out the The Crackhouse, one of the most impressive bouldering crack climbs I have seen. Cedar Wright along fellow Black Diamond Athlete Matt Segal on a trip to Australia. The climbs look pretty damn sweet, and the footage breaks my heart… Australia Climbing Adventure_THE MUSICAL_Total Eclipse from Cedar Wright Rocky Mountain National Park ‚Ä¢ Hallett Boulder ‚Ä¢ [...]

/ June 1, 2010 12:31 am

Nellie Milfeld Climbs Arms Bazaar in Boulder Colorado

Nellie Milfeld killing it at Bells Buttress in Boulder, Colorado. Footage shot by Cedar Wright. Arms Bazaar with Nellie Milfeld from Cedar Wright

/ April 26, 2010 9:42 am

DMM Dragon Cams, Rip Off or….?

The Dragon Cams are slowly making their way into gear shops across the States. I wrote a review on the Dragon Cams in March, 2010 about their slick design, supposed weight loss, and adjustable slings; the major differences from the Black Diamond Camalot. The BD Camalot patent has expired yes, but… What is your opinion on the new Dragon Cams? [...]

/ April 10, 2010 8:23 am

Steve Petro Fiddler on the Roof 5.13d

Steve Petro muscling his way up Fiddler on the Roof in Fremont Canyon, Wyoming. It went twenty years without a 2nd ascent! Jean-Pierre “Peewee” Ouellet from Montreal was ten falls deep before making the fingers stick in the crack and making the last dyno to a flake before pulling the roof. A true classic video here! Old school and New [...]

/ April 6, 2010 9:42 pm

Climbing News and Rock Climbing in the Shawangunks

Climberism heads to the Shawangunks for a weekend and a Monday of rock climbing. A lot has taken place in the climbing world check out the updates on climbing news below! Spring was in full bloom this past weekend and climberism pulled together a weekend of rock climbing at the Gunks of New York (hence the delay in posting). The [...]

/ March 25, 2010 8:21 pm

DMM Dragon Cams Review

This may be old news to some, since the DMM Dragon Cams were officially released March 3rd, 2010. But I thought I might post a review on them anyway. I have seen a bit of development in these guys, reading articles, watching videos, ect. They have come a long way.The DMM Dragon Cams feature a twin-axel camming design originally used [...]

/ March 24, 2010 1:14 pm

Jenn Flemming climbing and redpointing freeline (5.13b R) first female ascent

Jenn Flemming climbing the 80 foot Freeline 5.13b (R) in Eldorado Canyon, snagging its first female ascent, which quite possibly could be the hardest trad route led by a female in Eldorado Canyon. Jenn Flemming is climbing and living in Colorado and worked the line for 8 days before eventually sending it. “This route is technical, balancey, and intricate; a [...]