Peter Kamitses has sent the long standing Adirondack project he’s been working for over a year, calling it Oppositional Defiance Disorder with a grade of 5.14a. The steep trad line is located on Silver Lake’s Tsunami Wall and has seen a few attempts from many of the area’s top climbers, including Vermont local, Matt McCormick and French-Canadian Jean-Pierre “Peewee” Ouellet, [...]
After Colorado Custom Hardware owner and Alien Cam inventor, David Wagoneer, passed away after a brief illness in 2009, the Alien Cam manufacturing slowed and eventually shutdown completely. Nadia Wagoneer was left with running the business on her own and over time it became too much. With the fear of lawsuits over defective and recalled Alien’s still floating around the [...]
While it is not uncommon for rockfall to occur in the Northeast, we typically don’t see much of it, except for maybe on Cannon Cliff in New Hampshire. However, with all the rain and flooding we’ve seen this spring, it was only a matter of time before something let loose. Last Tuesday, around 10:30 in the morning, rock came tumbling [...]
Check out Redpoint, a free grade converter recently released for the iPhone and iTouch. It will convert your climbing grades between a Yosemite Decimal System, Brazilian, French, UIAA, British, and a few others grades. It converts bouldering grades as well as route grades. Exactly what you would expect, clean and simple. It beats searching google for the wiki grade chart. [...]
Good northeast weather makes for superb climbing at the Gunks!
The Western Massachusetts Climbers Coalition (WMCC)¬†recently announced, via their facebook page, on December 2nd, that they have worked with the Town of Leverett to maintain access to the top of the “Main Cliff” of Rattlesnake Gutter. A recent land purchase by the Town of Leverett required them to have a Conservation Restriction (CR) on it. A Massachusetts State Law requires [...]
Today the Mohonk Preserve will be announcing the beginning of public climbing and bouldering visits to the Rosendale Waterworks parcel, which has been recently acquired by the Open Space Conservancy, the acquisition affiliate of the Open Space Institute. The Waterworks parcel is being managed by the Mohonk Preserve. Visits to the site are available to Mohonk Preserve climbing members and [...]
Teaser: Nathalie Malo, who has only been climbing for four years, has climbed Toit de Ben, a 5.13a roof in Val David, Quebec; snagging the first female ascent! Another notable ascent of hers is the 5.12d/5.13a super long Zombie Roof in Squamish. Malo says she will try the famous La Zébrée in the Val David next year, as it is [...]
Teaser: Brian Kim, a local strong-man of New Jersey, recently climbed and established a new route he is calling Monumantle a 5.13d in the Gunks. The route is located on “Dismantle Block” in the middle of the Trapps. We caught up with Kim via the internet and cell phone e-mail while he was visiting Yosemite. Monumantle, Kim says, has a [...]
Teaser: A new hard but aesthetically pleasing route was recently established on Deer Leap Mountain in Vermont by Guy Alsentzer. Guy has named the route Simple and Independent Minds and given it a grade of 5.12 C2. He used a small amount of direct clean aid in order to gain the over hanging crack. His comments as far as the [...]
