Archive for category: Northeast Climbing News

/ March 26, 2012 9:00 am

Those darn falcons…

It’s that time of year again, the time when spring starts to poke its head out around the corner, lifting the spirits of all climbers and urging them to get out on the rock. Unfortunately, it’s also that time of year when peregrine falcons begin to build their nests. Even more unfortunate, is the fact that the falcons enjoy nesting [...]

/ March 21, 2012 9:41 am

Ashima Shiraishi Sends Crown of Aragorn (V13)

I am sure most of you know the name Ashima Shiraishi by now. For those of you who don’t, the New York superstar is soon to turn 11-years-old and has been in the spotlight since she sent Power of Silence (V10) in Hueco at only eight years of age in 2010.  Well it seems crushing V10 and V11 boulders wasn’t enough [...]

/ March 19, 2012 9:00 am

Second Ascent of Cannon Cliff’s Daedalus

As some of you are aware, there were a couple epic new lines that got put up on New Hampshire’s, Cannon Cliff this year. Matt McCormick and Bayard Russell put up The Minotaur (NEI 4+, M6+) on February 1st. Shortly after, Bayard Russell and Elliot Gaddy put up Daedalus (M7+) on February 7th. The two new lines run next to [...]

/ March 15, 2012 4:20 pm

A Tribute to Joe Szot and All He’s Done

I debated on whether or not writing something about a man I didn’t really know all that well was a good idea. But then I got to thinking, I did know Joe Szot. I knew him through The Bivy, his gift — or a hostel if you must — to ice climbers so they could rest their heads for an evening [...]

/ March 15, 2012 9:00 am

Band M Ledge Closed to Climbers

We have recently been informed that Band M Ledge in Madison, New Hampshire, has been closed to climbing. Band M is home to some classic lines including Nightflyer, Finally Dunn, Way Radical, and many more. The road to the cliff runs through a gravel pit owned by a local construction company, which also owns half of the cliff. A theft, [...]

/ March 5, 2012 9:59 am

Ken Nichols Climbs Dol Guldur in Connecticut 10,000 Times

It’s not too often that you hear about someone climbing a route more than a handful of times. Well Ken Nichols — the infamous man behind the bolt wars around the Northeast in the 1990′s — has ticked off his 10,000th ascent of Dol Guldur at East Peak in Connecticut. Col Guldur is one of those classic Connecticut Traprock ”5.11″ routes. [...]

/ March 1, 2012 10:00 am

Tent Bound in Devil’s Bay

While going on a climbing trip there are many obstacles that one must prepare for in order to ensure success. No matter how much we prepare though, there is one obstacle we can never control: the weather. Tent Bound in Devil’s Bay, presented by The North Face, is a video that focuses on how several climbers deal with a trip [...]

/ March 1, 2012 2:00 am

Update on Powerlinez Closure

On February 4th, we reported that the Powerlinez climbing area, located just north of NYC, was closed to climbers. Some of the information we gathered has been updated in the post below. There have been a lot of rumors flying around about the area. But, one fact is concrete: it’s shut down to climbers. In an interview with Climberism, Gabe Miani, a civil [...]

/ February 29, 2012 9:40 am

2012 AAC Annual Benefit Dinner in Boston

It’s almost time! This weekend, the American Alpine Club will be hosting their Annual Benefit Dinner in Boston, Massachusetts at the Westin Waterfront Hotel. In addition to the fancy dinner, keynote speakers, VIP events, book signings, and The Old Breed will kickoff its premier. If you aren’t already aware of The Old Breed — Freddie Wilkinson, Steve Swenson and Mark Richey’s epic [...]

/ February 28, 2012 10:00 am

Route Collapses on Climbers at Texaco, Crawford Notch, NH

Roughly two weeks ago, as reported in a NEClimbs forum, a climber witnessed a near disaster at the Texaco Amphitheater in Crawford Notch, New Hampshire. On February 11th, two climbers were on the route, Ankles Away (3+), when the ice collapsed, dropping the climber about 15 feet. As a result, the belayer was shot into the air as chunks of [...]