Archive for category: Ice Climbing

/ January 6, 2012 9:50 am

Norwegians Establish New Route on Torre Egger

At the end of December, Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and Ole Lied climbed a gnarly new route on the west side of Torre Egger’s south face in Patagonia. They’ve dubbed the line Venas Azules and tacked an AI6 grade to the the overall route! Torre Egger is the second highest spire (8,809 feet) in the Fitz Roy massif of southern Patagonia, and though [...]

/ January 5, 2012 9:00 am

Northeast Climbers Head West for Ouray Ice Comp

As ice climbing competition go, the Ouray competition in Colorado is likely the biggest in the country. The likes of the best climbers in the nation and even the world travel to the small mountain village. This year, we’re paying close attention to a few climbers competing in the Ouray Ice Climbing Competition: Nathan Kutcher (Ontario), Josh Worley (Vermont), Will Mayo [...]

/ January 3, 2012 9:00 am

Adirondack Ice Climbing Festival 2012

It’s that time of the year to pack up your RV (or Mazda Miata) and take to the road for some seriously awesome ice climbing festivals throughout the Northeast. While the weather hasn’t cooperated for solid and consistent ice just yet, the colder temps are finally here in northern New England. Coming up next weekend is the 16th Annual Adirondack [...]

/ December 14, 2011 5:46 pm

Harvard Cabin: Sheltering Climbers for 80 Years

As the long-awaited winter creeps across the Northeast, the hardy ice climbing community awakens from their long summer slumber. You may have seen them drytooling at your gym, with a blank gaze as they dreamed of frostbitten fingers, screaming barfies and that first ice screw placement. Or at the coffee shop cutting out pictures of Will Gadd from the climbing [...]

/ December 6, 2011 11:06 am

Conrad Anker on Black Magic in Hyalite Canyon

This time last year, ice had formed good enough to place some ice screws up in Smugglers Notch. The ravines on Mt. Washington were freezing nicely and everything was perfect for early ice. This year, however, the climbing gods seems to have forsaken us with warm weather and rain. A small taste of frozen water in early November had some climbers scratching away [...]

/ November 29, 2011 9:36 am

Avalanche Leads to Nasty Ice Climbing Fall and Self-Rescue

These guys were fortunate to only have been two hours away from help and lucky to have survived such a horrifying ordeal. After nearly completing what they believe to be a first ascent of a semi-moderate ice climb in Wyoming, the duo started simul-climbing when terror struck with the lead climber triggering an avalanche. The following climber was struck with [...]

/ November 21, 2011 1:08 pm

Diagonal NEI 5 and Repentance NEI5 Cathedral Ledge, NH

Silas Rossi and Peter Doucette kicking some classic ice climbing ass on Cathedral Ledge in New Hampshire! Diagonal and Repentance, both NEI 5.

/ November 1, 2011 8:19 am

Kicking Ice Season Off Early!

While the majority of the Northeast is fully engulfed in the indoor comp season, a select few are getting after some early ice conditions in the Vermont and New Hampshire high country. It is hard to believe we are already, slowly making the switch from rock to ice season; it definitely snuck up on us! This past weekend, Erik Eisele and Peter Doucette [...]

/ July 6, 2011 8:30 am

Steve House on Repentance and Remission Video

Steve House visited the Northeast last winter and soloed two classic ice climbs on New Hampshire’s Cathedral Ledge — Repentance and Remission. We talked with Steve about the Northeast, R&R, his fall, and what has inspired him as a climber. The video below was filmed by Jim Surette of Granite Films.   Dave: Can you give me a little background [...]

/ May 14, 2011 9:23 am

Freddie Wilkinson and Ueli Steck Climb Cholatse

After a successful winter season in the Northeast, Wilkinson, headed to the Himalaya to test his ability with Ueli Steck on Cholatse. Source: climbingnarc.com