Archive for category: Bouldering

/ January 4, 2012 4:50 pm

Adam Ondra’s First 8c Boulders

Filmmaker Petr Pavlíček is making a full length movie about Adam Ondra’s crushnastiness. The 18-year old Czech has been taking the climbing world by storm for the past few years as he pushes the limits of what we all thought was possible. At just nine years old, he onsighted 7c+/5.13 and has climbed 938 routes between 8a/5.13b and 9b/5.15b, with 433 of [...]

/ January 2, 2012 9:30 am

Governor Stable Is Open!

Pennsylvania’s Governor Stable (GS) boulder area is officially open for the season! Located in Northwestern Lancaster County in the small village of Bainbridge, GS  is open from January 1 to August 31 each year. It has over 250 problems on about 63 boulders ranging in difficulty from V0 to V10 and beyond, and is a must-visit destination for any boulderer [...]

/ December 28, 2011 9:00 am

Climb Nova Scotia Goes Mobile

With guidebooks becoming more available to climbers on their mobile devices, I think we are going to see many more of these types of projects pop up. The group of climbers that run Climb Nova Scotia, the local access organization in Nova Scotia,  have officially released their Mobile Beta Project. We’ve been watching it develop for a couple months now, and [...]

/ December 9, 2011 8:30 am

Adam Ondra Crushes Gioia V16/8c+

On Tuesday, Adam Ondra continued his march at the higher realms of the climbing world. In Verazze, Italy, he repeated the gnarly Gioia (V16/8c+). The route was put up by Italian Christian Core in 2008, and he was on hand to see Ondra second it. Ondra spent eleven days working Gioia, and with the problem being such a beast, he [...]

/ December 8, 2011 5:23 pm

Pawtuckaway in December

I am ashamed to admit it, but I must confess, I have yet to make it down to Pawatuckaway and every time I see videos come out of this place, I feel more and more like I need to pull it together. Here is a great video of some classic Pawtuckaway Bouldering shot by Eric Heiden. Problems climbed: The Arrow, v1 [...]

/ December 5, 2011 12:34 pm

Mt. Gretna Bouldering Competition 2011

/ November 30, 2011 1:38 pm

Phillip Schaal Climbs Midnight Express

Looks like the fall season has been going well for Phillip Schaal. He reports via his blog that he has sent Ty Landman’s Midnight Express, a V14 in Boulder Canyon. Schaal got his start by establishing many hard boulders in Connecticut. The problem was established in 2007 and has since been repeated by Seth Allred, Daniel Woods, Paul Robinson, Jimmy [...]

/ November 16, 2011 9:47 am

Rob D’Anastasio Climbs Roses and Blue Jays (V13)

Rob D’Anastasio has been climbing extremely well lately. Before his recent send of Roses and Blue Jays in Great Barrington MA, he won the first chapter of the Dark Horse series. He was the only person to finish all four problems. Video by Dave Wetmore – Louder Than 11

/ November 14, 2011 5:12 pm

Adam Ondra Suggests V16 for Latest Project

Ondra has been hard at work at home in the Czech Republic as of late. He recently opened up a new V15/8C he is calling Cháron, and only a short time later pulled together Terranova, a proposed  V16/8C+ at Holstejn. The problem is a 12 move traverse that climbs at the bottom of a sport climbing area in the Czech Republic. Definitely [...]

/ November 8, 2011 10:32 am

Pawtuckaway Bouldering

Dave Wetmore and Jon Glassberg climbing in Pawtuckaway, New Hampshire. Dave climbs “Dome Piece” (V10). Jon climbs “Back at you with the Realness” (V11) and “Halcyon” (V11).